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Knokkon

One day in July 2017, I read a comment on a thread about nettles as a source of yarn. Today, Knokkon is an online shop for ecological nettle and hemp-made yarns and products for consumers and businesses. Since that comment in July, nettles have been growing in the garden, their leaves have been used for cooking and drinks, and we have experimented making fibre from culms by hand. The history and structure of nettles has also become quite familiar. Nettle is an ancient fibre plant, whose silky and fine fibres were suitable even for royal clothing and sheets. The coarser, more easily obtained fibres are ideal for sacks and fishing nets. They could be dismantled and remade into another product, so the fibre was truly valued. Nettle, scientifically known as Urtica dioica, has some related plants, some of which are commonly called nettle. Knokkon uses only European stinging nettle in its products, which is the most common nettle species in Europe and has excellent fibre content and properties. Historically, nettles have had many names in different dialects. For example, back in the days there was talk of 'vihulainen' and 'nokilainen’. From these Finnish nicknames and dialect words, Knokkon was formed. The word ’nokkonen’ comes from the word ’nokata’, as the nettle was thought to nibble at skin that came too close. Knokkon comes from the word, nokata, from the English word knock. When knocking, the wrist makes the same movement as the nettle does when it pinches the skin.

Before Knokkon, a lot of research had to be done. A research trip into the world of nettle took me to Nivala, where extensive research had been done about the potential of nettle as a textile fibre. I was able to have access to the research results, and the material was accompanied by samples of processed nettle fibre. Looking at the samples made me think about doing it all again. Artificial fibre textiles are leaching microplastics into the environment and substitutes are being sought for cotton, which is a major drain on drinking water supplies, and nettles are growing everywhere. Nettle is proven to be ecologically sustainable and its fibre is silky fine, durable and the most breathable of all natural fibres. Nettle is meant to get into textiles and close to the skin.

The research continued and eventually led me to a German company to learn about the extensive cultivation of nettle and fibre hemp. Nettle and hemp grow with very little water, without pesticides and herbicides. I also visited the factory to see how the fibres are extracted. A German company has succeeded in developing a new mechanical method to remove the fine, silky core fibres from culms without water or chemicals. I also got to see the very thin yarns spun from nettle, hemp and Turkish organic cotton and the really high-quality test pieces made from them for a range of textile products.

Knokkon uses German nettle and fibre hemp as well as Turkish cotton in its products. Transport distances are kept short by acquiring materials as locally as possible. Materials are imported in large quantities at a time, and production is ecological and responsible. In all activities, the least environmentally damaging option is sought. Fabrics are made in Finland. Selected finished products are manufactured in Finland.

Knokkon products

Nettle fibre has superior breathability compared to other natural fibres, and when combined with fibre hemp, which has excellent breathability, a nettle-cotton fabric is superb when it gets close to skin. Twill weave is drapey and is in harmony with any interior due to its neutral and natural colours. Washing softens the fabric and gives it its final shape.

Knokkon aims to keep the carbon footprint of its products as small as possible. The materials are ecological and acquired as locally as possible. The nettle (urtica dioica) used in the fabric is ecologically and ethically cultivated in Germany. The fibres are mechanically separated using an innovative method and without water. The cotton used to bind the fabric is ethically and ecologically produced in Turkey.

The yarns used in the fabric are spun in Germany and woven into fabric in Finland.

The nettle cotton fabric is also an ecological choice because no pesticides or herbicides are used in the cultivation of the materials. The nettle only needs natural rainfall to grow, which also saves groundwater.